Sauerdough Bread and Vergi Harbour

In the port of Vergi, at the Wirkes restaurant on the edge of Lahemaa National Park, it is easy to see how nature dictates a rhythm. In winter the sea is quieter, in summer the harbour is busier – but there is always room for slowness here. Sourdough fits perfectly into this rhythm: it is not made in a hurry. Flour, water, salt and yeast simply need time to become something much greater than the sum of the four ingredients.

A little history to set things in place

Sourdough bread was made long before baker's yeast hit the shelves. It was discovered in ancient Egypt that a mixture of flour and water could start to bubble and rise on its own when left warm – natural fermentation made the dough airier and the bread taste deeper. In Europe, sourdough was a normal part of home baking for centuries: every household kept its own “live” sourdough starter, and the local flour, weather, and cooking routine shaped the taste so that no two loaves of bread were ever exactly the same.

In the 19th century, breadmaking became more industrialized: yeast became available, the process faster, and the result more consistent. This has its advantages – speed and stability – but in the world of sourdough, time is what creates character. In recent decades, sourdough has regained its place in many kitchens, as people seek out real taste, craftsmanship, and a more leisurely pace.

A little science (in plain language)

Natural yeasts and lactic acid bacteria live together in the sourdough. The yeasts produce gas (CO₂) that makes the dough rise; the lactic acid bacteria give the bread a mild sourness, aroma and help it keep better. At the same time, gluten – a network of proteins in wheat flour – develops in the dough, which traps gas bubbles. This is why folding and sufficient fermentation are so important: they give the dough strength and the bread an airy texture.

Simple guide: one basket of sourdough bread (1 loaf)

This recipe yields about 900–1000 g of dough – a good amount for one banneton.

Ingredients

500 g wheat flour (400 g wheat flour + 100 g wholemeal if desired)

350 g water (room temperature)

100 g active starter (fed and “on top”)

15 g salt

1) Prepare the starter

If the starter comes from the refrigerator, feed it before making the dough (e.g. 1:2:2) and wait until it is bubbly and has risen. Good starter will smell pleasantly sour and is clearly alive. One day of feeding may not be enough for the starter to function normally. Sometimes it can take 2-3 days.

2) Mix the dough

Mix flour and water and let stand for 30 minutes (autolysis). Add yeast and salt, mix until smooth. The dough may be sticky - this is normal.

3) Folding (2 hours)

Make 4 folds: every 30-60 minutes. With wet hands, lift the edge of the dough, stretch gently, and fold into the center; repeat on all four sides. With each fold, the dough will firm up and become smoother.

4) Primary fermentation (bulk)

Leave the dough to rise at room temperature until it is noticeably airier and about 50% larger (often 3–8 hours, depending on the heat). Signs include a slightly bubbly surface and a “lively” feeling when you move the bowl. You can also rise in the refrigerator, then the dough will rise more slowly, up to 24 hours. However, the flavors will be stronger.

5) Molding and basket

Place dough on counter, pre-shape and let rest for 10 min. Shape into final loaf (keep surface tight) and place in floured basket. Final proofing: 2–4 hours at room temperature or 8–16 hours in refrigerator (easiest to time and will deepen flavor).

6) Cutting and baking

Preheat oven to 230°C. Turn loaf out onto baking paper, cut 0.5–1 cm deep (30–45° angle). Bake for 20 min under steam (or in a cast iron pot under a lid, or by adding water to the baking sheet), then 20–25 min without steam (or without a lid), until the crust is deep golden. Let cool on a rack for at least 45–60 min – then the contents will cut most beautifully.

Finally

Sourdough is not just a recipe, but a habit of taking your time. When you make bread, you have two options: rush it or let the process guide you. The peace of Vergi and the nature of Lahemaa remind you that the best things happen slowly. Try this loaf at home – and if you want to go through all the steps with guidance, in the sourdough workshop at Wirkes we will make the whole way together, from sourdough to oven-warm bread.

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